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Getting Started

An apparel manufacturing glossary for new brands

Manufacturing conversations move quickly and assume shared vocabulary. These are the terms that most often cause confusion.

Development

  • Block: a base pattern used as the starting point for new styles
  • Tech pack: the specification document a factory produces from
  • Proto sample: the first sample, made to test construction
  • Fit sample: a sample in correct fabric used to evaluate fit
  • Pre production sample: the approved standard for the run
  • Grading: scaling a pattern across a size range
  • Point of measure: a specified location where a garment is measured

Materials

  • GSM: grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight
  • Hand: how a fabric feels
  • Deadstock: surplus fabric from other production
  • Dye lot: a batch dyed together, which may vary slightly from another batch
  • Interfacing: material added to give structure to a panel

Production

  • Marker: the layout of pattern pieces used for cutting
  • Consumption: fabric required per garment
  • MOQ: minimum order quantity
  • Full package: the factory sources materials and delivers finished goods
  • CMT: cut, make and trim, where the brand supplies materials
  • Bundle: cut pieces grouped for a sewing operator

Quality

  • Tolerance: acceptable variance from a specified measurement
  • First piece inspection: checking the first garment off the line
  • Shading: colour variation within or between rolls

Making something in Los Angeles?

Vector Apparel Projects has produced apparel in Los Angeles since 2012, with patternmaking, sampling, cutting, sewing, finishing and inspection under one roof.

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