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Production

Outerwear production and why it costs what it does

Outerwear carries more operations, more components and more risk than almost any other everyday garment. That is the whole explanation for the price.

Where the complexity accumulates

  • Shell, lining and sometimes insulation, each with its own pattern
  • Hardware such as zippers, snaps and adjusters
  • Pockets, often multiple, sometimes welted
  • Collars, hoods and facings
  • Topstitching and reinforcement
  • Interlinings and structural components

Multiple patterns for one garment

Shell and lining need separate patterns that work together. Errors compound, because a mismatch between layers appears only when both are assembled.

Hardware lead times

Custom zippers, pulls and hardware are made to order and frequently have longer lead times than the fabric. They should be ordered at the front of the process, not the end.

Sampling takes longer

Expect more revision rounds than for simple garments. Each round is also slower to produce because the sample itself takes longer to make.

Where to simplify

If cost needs to come down, reduce operation count rather than material quality. Removing a pocket or simplifying a lining is usually less damaging to the product than cheapening the shell fabric.

Making something in Los Angeles?

Vector Apparel Projects has produced apparel in Los Angeles since 2012, with patternmaking, sampling, cutting, sewing, finishing and inspection under one roof.

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