Fabric is usually the largest material cost in a garment and the largest source of waste. Cutting efficiency is where both are decided.
Where fabric is lost
- Gaps between pattern pieces in the marker
- End of roll remnants too short to use
- Selvedge and edge allowances
- Faults cut around during spreading
- Shrinkage and relaxation before cutting
Marker efficiency
Marker efficiency is the percentage of laid fabric that ends up in garments. Small improvements matter because they apply to every piece in the run. Nesting pieces from multiple sizes in the same marker usually improves it noticeably.
Design choices that help
- Pieces that nest well, without awkward protrusions
- Fewer separate panels where the design permits
- Flexibility on grain direction where the fabric allows
- Fabric width chosen to suit the pattern rather than the reverse
Fabric width is worth checking
The same pattern can consume meaningfully different yardage at different fabric widths, because pieces nest differently. If a fabric is available in more than one width, it is worth calculating both.
Offcuts have value
Remnants can become smaller accessories, patch pockets or sampling material. Planning for that at the design stage is far more effective than trying to find a use for a pile of scrap afterwards.