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Production

T-shirt manufacturing and the details that distinguish one

A t-shirt has few operations, which means every one of them is visible. There is nowhere for a mistake to hide.

The neckline decides the garment

Collar rib quality, the width of the binding, and how evenly it is applied determine whether the shirt still looks good after washing. A stretched or wavy neckline is the most common failure in tee production.

Construction variables

  • Side seamed or tubular body
  • Shoulder taping, which stabilises the seam
  • Sleeve and hem finish, single or double needle
  • Whether the neckline is bound, ribbed or self fabric

Side seamed versus tubular

Tubular bodies are cheaper because there are fewer operations, but the fit is straighter and less shaped. Side seams allow shaping and generally produce a more considered garment.

Fabric matters more here than elsewhere

With so little construction to carry the garment, fabric quality dominates the result. Yarn quality, knit consistency and finishing determine whether the shirt pills, twists or holds its shape.

Twisting after wash

Torque, where side seams spiral around the body after washing, is a common defect caused by yarn and knit tension. Test wash before production, because it cannot be corrected afterwards.

Making something in Los Angeles?

Vector Apparel Projects has produced apparel in Los Angeles since 2012, with patternmaking, sampling, cutting, sewing, finishing and inspection under one roof.

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