Los Angeles has one of the deepest fabric ecosystems in the country, which is an advantage and a hazard. The advantage is that you can see and touch material the same week you decide you need it. The hazard is that availability varies enormously between sources.
The three kinds of supply
Mills and converters
Produce or finish fabric to order. Best for consistency and repeatability across seasons, with higher minimums and longer lead times.
Jobbers and stock houses
Hold inventory available immediately. Excellent for speed and small runs. The catch is that a specific fabric may not be repeatable once the roll is gone.
Deadstock
Surplus yardage from other production. Often good value and a genuine sustainability story, with the same repeatability caveat and usually limited quantity.
What to check before you commit
- Available yardage against your consumption plus a cutting allowance
- Width, because it changes marker efficiency and therefore cost
- Weight, in grams per square metre or ounces per yard
- Shrinkage after wash, tested before the pattern is finalised
- Colour consistency across dye lots
- Whether the fabric can be repeated next season
Test before you scale
Wash test and shrink test every fabric before the pattern is finalised. A pattern built on unshrunk fabric produces a garment that fits perfectly once and never again.
Repeatability is a business decision
If a style is core to your range, favour a source you can reorder. If it is a limited drop, deadstock and jobber inventory are well suited to the job.