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Sourcing & Materials

Knit and woven fabrics, and what changes in production

Knit and woven are not styles, they are constructions, and the choice determines much of how a garment is patterned, sewn and priced.

The structural difference

Woven fabric is made from yarns crossing at right angles and has little inherent stretch. Knit fabric is made from interlocking loops and stretches by construction. Everything else follows from that.

What changes in patternmaking

Knits can use negative ease because the fabric accommodates the body. Wovens generally need ease and shaping built in through darts, seams and panels. The same measurements produce very different patterns.

What changes on the floor

  • Knits are typically sewn on overlock and coverstitch machines
  • Wovens rely more on lockstitch, with seam finishing added separately
  • Knits are more prone to distortion during cutting and handling
  • Wovens are more likely to require interfacing and pressing

Cost implications

Neither is universally cheaper. Simple knit garments are usually quicker to sew. Structured woven garments carry more operations. What matters is operation count, not the category label.

Fit expectations

Knit garments forgive small grading errors because the fabric moves. Woven garments do not, which is why fit sampling on wovens deserves extra attention.

Making something in Los Angeles?

Vector Apparel Projects has produced apparel in Los Angeles since 2012, with patternmaking, sampling, cutting, sewing, finishing and inspection under one roof.

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