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Sourcing & Materials

Deadstock fabric, the real advantages and limitations

Deadstock is surplus yardage left over from other production. It has genuine advantages and one significant constraint that brands often discover too late.

The advantages

  • Available immediately, with no mill lead time
  • Often priced below equivalent new fabric
  • Uses material that already exists
  • Access to quality and constructions that might otherwise be out of reach at low quantity

The constraint

Quantity is finite and generally not repeatable. When the roll is gone, the fabric is gone. A style built on deadstock cannot be reordered in the same material.

Where it fits well

Limited runs, capsule collections, sampling and one off drops. Anywhere the finite quantity is part of the concept rather than a problem to be solved later.

Where it causes trouble

Core styles you intend to sell continuously. Discovering that your best selling piece cannot be remade is a difficult position, especially if the style carries the brand.

Practical checks

  • Confirm total available yardage before designing around it
  • Inspect for faults, ageing and storage damage
  • Check consistency across rolls, which may come from different lots
  • Wash test, since history and prior finishing may be unknown

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Vector Apparel Projects has produced apparel in Los Angeles since 2012, with patternmaking, sampling, cutting, sewing, finishing and inspection under one roof.

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